Thread is the material your embroidery is made from — its quality, type, and weight affect everything from sheen and colour vibrancy to durability through washing. With dozens of thread types available, it can feel overwhelming. This guide cuts through the complexity.
The Three Main Thread Types
Polyester Thread
Polyester is the most popular machine embroidery thread for a reason: it's strong, colourfast, and machine washable at high temperatures. It resists bleach better than rayon and is less prone to thread breaks. For commercial workwear, sportswear, and anything washed frequently, polyester is the right choice.
- •Durability: excellent — holds up through commercial washing at 60–90°C.
- •Sheen: moderate — less sheen than rayon but still attractive.
- •Colour range: very wide — most brands offer 300–500+ colours.
- •Best for: workwear, uniforms, sportswear, children's clothing, items washed repeatedly.
Rayon Thread
Rayon (viscose) thread has a brilliant, silk-like sheen that makes it the choice for decorative embroidery where appearance is paramount. It's softer and more lustrous than polyester, but less colourfast and less durable in harsh washing conditions.
- •Durability: moderate — will fade slightly over many washes; not ideal for commercial laundry.
- •Sheen: high — the most lustrous standard embroidery thread.
- •Colour range: very wide — rayon is available in the widest range of shades and variegated colours.
- •Best for: decorative items, home décor, gifts, items with gentle washing requirements.
Cotton Thread
Cotton embroidery thread produces a soft, matte finish with a slightly textured look. It's not used widely in machine embroidery (it's prone to breaking and pilling) but it's valued for heirloom and vintage-style work.
- •Durability: lower than polyester or rayon.
- •Sheen: matte.
- •Best for: heirloom embroidery, vintage-style designs, hand-feel priority over durability.
Thread Weight Explained
Thread weight is described as a number — the higher the number, the finer the thread. This is counterintuitive but standard in the industry.
| Weight | Description | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| 12-weight | Very heavy | Bold outlines, heavy fill on thick fabrics |
| 30-weight | Heavy | Bold designs, thick stabilizer stacks |
| 40-weight | Standard | All-purpose — the most common embroidery thread |
| 60-weight | Fine | Bobbin thread, fine detail work |
| 80-weight | Very fine | Delicate work, shadow embroidery, specialty |
Specialty Thread Types
- •Metallic thread: reflective, adds sparkle. Use a metallic needle (large eye) and slow your machine speed. Prone to shredding.
- •Glow-in-the-dark thread: novelty use for costumes and children's items. Medium durability.
- •Holographic / reflective thread: for high-visibility safety wear or fashion embroidery.
- •Variegated thread: changes colour along its length, creating gradient effects in embroidery.
- •Wool thread: thick, soft, often used with specialty techniques like wool appliqué.
Thread Brand Comparison
| Brand | Type | Reputation |
|---|---|---|
| Madeira | Polyester and rayon | Premium quality, excellent colour consistency |
| Robison-Anton | Polyester and rayon | US favourite, excellent colour range |
| Isacord | Polyester | Gold standard for commercial polyester — very consistent |
| Sulky | Rayon and cotton | Popular with home embroiderers, good sheen |
| Brother Satin | Polyester | Good quality bundled thread for Brother machines |
| Exquisite / A&E | Polyester | Value option, solid quality for commercial production |
Create your embroidery design file — works with any thread brand:
Open SewFlow Free →Storage Tip
Store thread away from direct sunlight and in a cool, dry location. UV exposure fades rayon thread significantly over time. A drawer or covered rack is better than an open wall display for long-term colour preservation.